Camper Rehab by Chris Peterson

Author:Chris Peterson
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Cool Springs Press
Published: 2017-03-13T04:00:00+00:00

1 Determine the location for the panels on the roof of the camper. Select an area that will not be shaded by nearby structures, such as an air-conditioning unit hood, and that will be close to where you want to route the system cables (cables are often routed down a waste tank vent). Measure and mark the exact location.

2 Unbox all the components and check that you have all the hardware you’ll need. Clean the installation area thoroughly. If you’re using flexible panels, the surface has to be absolutely free of dirt, grease, or foreign substances that might prevent the panels from adhering securely to the roof.

3 Check the voltage on the panels with a multimeter to ensure they are not damaged. Leave the panels covered if possible, to block the sun and stop the panels from producing current.

NOTE: You can also work indoors, such as in a garage, to prevent the panels from producing significant current.

4 Attach the Z brackets to the panels (or to the sliding guides for adjustable panels). Mark the holes for the Z bracket feet on the roof of the camper and drill pilot holes for the bracket screws.

5 Lay a dab of sealant caulk in the screw holes before attaching the feet to the roof. Cover the Z bracket feet and the screw or bolt head with a liberal bead of sealant caulk once the panel is fastened down.

NOTE: Select the appropriate tape and sealant for the roof you have—rubber will require different sealant than fiberglass or aluminum. You can also provide additional protection against leaks by laying down a square of sealant tape under each Z bracket foot.

ALTERNATIVE: If you’re using flexible panels, peel back the plastic covering the adhesive from one edge. Line up the edge with the marks on the roof and, as you continue peeling the plastic, press the rest of the panel down into position. Completely smooth it out all over the surface, being careful to press out all air bubbles.

6 Plan the best path for the power cables down to the battery compartment. (A waste tank vent is a great option because any leaks drain into the gray water tank.) Drill a hole for the cables alongside the vent pipe or down into a refrigerator vent. Mark each end of what will be the positive cable with tape, and feed the cables down into the hole. Route the cables as needed, using ties and wire clamps to secure the cables along their route.

7 Attach the controller to the wall of the battery compartment with the supplied screws. Connect the power cables from the panel to the inputs on the controller, and connect the battery cables from the controller to the batteries, following the manufacturer’s hookup instructions—cutting and splicing wires as necessary.

OPTION: Your system may have come with a meter controller with a readout, meant to be mounted inside the camper. If so, run the cable from the controller up to the closest convenient location from the battery compartment, and cut an access hole in the mounting location (usually a false cabinet front or similar area).

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